The Most Asked About Shirt In The World
Have you ever thrifted something that became such a character in your life that you wanted to know its story? Well I have, so I am tracking down the people behind some of my most defining thrift finds.
For the first item I am investigating my favorite shirt. When I spotted it in an aisle of a Goodwill in Texas, it instantly struck me as something one of the very cool 20 somethings who populate the backgrounds of my childhood memories would have worn skulking about Seattle in the 2000s. From the moment I picked it up it felt rebellious to me. My mother who was with me at the time didn’t see its intrigue and vocalized that I shouldn’t get it, advice I typically follow given her status as my original It girl. Yet it spoke to me on some deep level and I found myself quickly at the checkout, now the owner of not only this shirt but a new burning excitement for the adventures we would have together.
The top ticks all my boxes which make it one of the first pieces plucked from every one of my clean laundry piles. Its got 3/4 length sleeves, an interesting graphic & color combination, ultra flattering fit and last but certainly not least, its machine washable.
The original product shot from the SUVA Archives
Quickly the shirt was whisked off to my apartment in Paris and subsequently landed a ticket on every trip I have taken since. Currently it’s residing with me in London where it it takes me as many places as the underground; to work, parties, errands, dinner and especially meeting new friends.
Whenever I wear it, without a doubt someone asks me about it, so much so that my flatmate Diwa has started responding on my behalf when people ask about it at parties. To me, when your outfit inspires a new connection that’s fashion at its best; a way of bringing people together and making the world a little less intimidating.
This combined with my love of finding out about the people who have brought incredible things to life, inspired me to track down the creators of the shirt.
Through the internet rabbit hole I was able to get in contact with Natalya Bagrova, one of the co founders of SUVA. She informed me that my shirt was part of their Fall 2003 collection. They took the photo on the front of the shirt, which is called "Pietro", in Venice Italy on September 7, 2002, at Osteria da Carla. The Journal tag that originally came with the shirt had this entry: "In search of lunch, and to avoid the crowds and pigeons of San Marco, we walked up Frezzeria and turned off into the quiet maze of alleys around La Fenice. Pleasantly lost. Framed by a narrow archway and propped in front of the wall painting, the flowers on a cask invited us down the alley and into the hidden tavern filled with Venetians." All of their clothing came with a journal tag that listed the exact location and the date of the photo and a short story about that place or moment in time.
Osteria Da Carla in Venice
Tags which came with all SUVA garments
Upon this revelation I had a billion more questions so I have included our further exchanges:
How many collections did you guys do?
From 2002 through 2008 We created just over 130 prints and designed about 30 styles (various tops, dresses, jackets, skirts, accessories, and even a few custom gowns!). Some styles were reversible to give you two outfits in one.
What originally inspired you?
Short answer: Beauty and Imagery of everyday life around the world. When I discovered my co-founder's (also my husband) Timothy Showater's photo collection from the year he traveled the globe I was inspired to show them to the world. However, the photography market was just too competitive and the usual means of publishing a photo book or prints was dominated by professional photographers. One day I saw a gorgeous t-shirt designed by Dolce & Gabbana that had a full bleed photo of Madonna's face from her latest album Ray of Light so I had a crazy idea "Why don't we print them on fabric and turn them into wearable art". And with that idea, SUVA was born.
The Dolce & Gabbana shirt in question
Were all the photos from a specific trip?
The first prints were from Tim's various travels throughout the US and a big trip around the world (New Zealand, Cambodia, Burma, India, Nepal, Vietnam, South Korea, Thailand, Italy, England, and Denmark). As we continued creating new designs I became obsessed with taking pictures everywhere we went and some of them made it to production as well.
What was the reasoning behind the trip to Venice?
Pietro's photograph was from a trip I did with my mom. It was just the two of us traveling to Italy together for the first time.
I read that you guys where the first people to print digital photos onto clothes.
We began SUVA before digital printing on clothing was a thing, so the printing was different. It was called dye-sublimation.
How did people react when they saw them?
To our surprise, other people fell in love with them. They were so different and anything but commercial. Prints were not your ordinary pretty pictures, slogans, or famous art reproductions. They were striking, abstract, and graphic and presented something different and personal to everyone who wore them. The story that came with the item gave customers a sense of ownership and pride, they could talk about it with anyone who made them a compliment, and they knew where the photo was taken and when. A true conversation starter! People also loved the easy care. All items were machine washable and did not wrinkle, were comfortable, made well, and could last for a very long time without fading or losing shape.
How did you figure out that you could print the photos onto clothing?
We knew that this method existed but we did not know what it was called or who did it. So we started going to fashion trade shows and learning about what was out there and how people made their prints. We did a lot of research and testing until we found the printer in Florida that got it just right. It consisted of printing on large sublimation paper sheets with special ink and transferring those prints from paper onto fabric on a press table. Heat and pressure from the press would turn the ink into gas and infuse it into fibers (that's why you don't feel any paint, it's all smooth and does not fade!).
How did you manufacture them?
After print transfers were done in Florida they were shipped to Manhattan where a small factory near our studio completed cut and sew. Because each print was transferred onto a square fabric panel our manufacturer had to stack each one by hand in order to be cut into patterns. It was a very time-consuming and expensive process and since we funded the entire production ourselves after a while it just became too expensive to keep making. It was a true labor of love.
Did you guys each have a favorite piece from your collection?
I love them all but my top favorites are 29 "Flowers for Sale", 37 "Ravenna" and 73 "Espresso"
Do you still wear any of it to this day?
I sure do, half of my closet is still SUVA.
Natalya Bagrova in a SUVA Design Dress in 73 Espresso
Did you ever encounter it in the wild or were you ever surprised by someone who you didn't know wearing it?
Several times in New York City. First one was the best encounter. We were going to see a concert at the Irving Plaza and saw someone in the line wearing our shirt! We were so excited that a complete stranger chose to wear our shirt to such a cool venue. After the concert when everyone exited we saw the same person again with their friends so we decided to talk to them and thank them for their purchase. Young lady was visiting and I think was more excited then we were. We invited her and her friend to visit our design studio and pick another shirt on us. It was a win win for everyone.
Have you ever thought about starting it back up? I am not exaggerating when I tell you this is the item of clothing I get asked the most about where I got it.
I love designing but would not want to do our own cut and sew again. I do have a society6 shop and other print on demand stores where I add design ideas that I just can't let go of.
Do you have any extra stock lying around?
Very very few items (that my mom have collected over the years) and some samples that I kept for myself.
What do you think about the overwhelming digitization of all aspects of life today, since you were bringing the digital world into the real world?
I feel we are beginning to loose the sense of wander, getting lost and discovering things on our own. Everything has been documented, there are very few surprises or secrets left to uncover. But I understand the urge to document our lives and I am still inspired by sometimes ordinary things most people overlook.
What are the items in your wardrobes which are the biggest conversation starters?
Probably the reversible black coat that we made with "74 Espresso" print as a lining.
What excites you about fashion today?
Thrift shopping! Honestly I love seeing so many stores embracing circular economy and giving fashion items second lives.
What surprised you the most about your SUVA clothing journey?
How many people loved our designs and supported us over the years. I was a humbling experience of learning how to create a product people would enjoy and also how hard it is to create a sustainable and profitable business doing something that you love.
Check out the SUVA Wear Society6 page and if you are fiending for your own piece of SUVA check out the relics I found on Poshmark pictured above.
Huge thank you to Natalya for speaking with me and creating clothing that is loved so dearly by me and many others.
